Lawn and Grass Care Information

CLIMATE AND GROWTH

The midwestern United States constitutes a zone on the map of the U.S. where the soil is less acidic and there is less rainfall than in other zones like the Pacific northwest or the northeast. The winters are cold and the summers are warm and humid. This is why in this zone cool season grasses like Kentucky bluegrass, Ryegrass and fine Fescue are most common. Fescue grasses however, do not grow well in heavy clay soils.

In Minnesota soil varies from sandy and sandy loam to heavy clay. Tests have shown that most lawns in the Metro area are high in phosphorus and therefore condusive to developement of a thicker lawn. In analyzing the exact need for your lawn it may be recommended to obtain a laboratory test at the following testing laboratory, or at a local nursery.

Soil Testing Laboratory
University of Minnesota
1903 Hendon Avenue
St. Paul, MN 55108
612-625-3101 Web site: http://soiltest.coafes.umn.edu

SOD

The blend of Kentucky bluegrass most used by Ibes Landscaping, and ideally suited for suburban lawns, is Scott's Bristol blend grown in Minnesota. As with most modern blends of Kentucky bluegrass the Bristol blend is resistant to such diseases as leaf spot, stripe smut, stem rust and powdery mildew. It also has good density and a medium coarse blade with an excellent color and shine. The grass is only cut after it has been properly rooted and is established.

WATERING

The first two weeks:

This is the most crucial period for your newly installed lawn, and it should be cared for like a baby. It is recommended to water daily and evenly during this period in order to establish a solid and healthy root system. This does not mean inundating the yard, but simply applying enough water to ensure that the sod does not dry out, while stimulating important root growth. Because many conditions are in constant flux, it is difficult to say what is the exact amount which should be applied. The best rule of thumb is to lift up a roll to see if the water has soaked through the sod and the soil is moist.

Small areas and strips along the driveway are in serious danger of drying out if not tended to and need special attention. It is best to water in the morning hours. Remember, some areas in the low spots in your yard may get extra drainage water from the other higher parts of the yard, and this should be kept under control. Afternoon watering has the possible ill effect of leaf burn (especially on hot sunny summer days). Evening watering may also cause problems, such as fungal growth under the sod rolls, because of the cool evening temperatures combined with the moisture from sprinkling.

Following weeks:

Water when the lawn needs it and if the days are anticipated to be dry or are drier than anticipated. It is also important to keep an eye out for edges that are drying out, or other areas that need extra water. Remember, your lawn has not yet had time to establish itself completely, so it will still need some T.L.C.

MOWING

You may mow your lawn, generally, after the first week , as long as the sod has had a chance to root and your feet do not sink in when you walk on it.

How often you need to mow your yard depends on three things:

1. How often and how much did you fertilize.

2. What time of year is it.

3. The type of grass on your lawn.

The more fertilizer the more mowing you will need to do, and the same with watering and fertilizer combinations. In general, however, the cool season grasses (such as Kentucky bluegrass) will slow down during the summer and more dormant months, requiring mowing only once every two or three weeks. In the cooler and rainier months, during spring and fall, this type of grass will tend to grow more rapidly and require more mowing.

The 'golden rule' is : mow when the grass grows from one fourth to one third taller than its recommended height. For example; the recommended height is two inches, mow when lawn is three inches. The wrath you may incur for not adhering to this golden rule could be potentially painful. By letting the grass grow too high and then cutting away half or more at once, you expose stems that have been shaded and may burn them in the strong sunlight. If the lawn is yellowish after you mow, you have waited to long to mow it. More importantly, roots are severerly shocked by heavy mowing and may need several weeks to recover. It has been shown that there exists a direct relationship between the height of the cut and the depth of the roots. When grass is properly mowed to its recommended height, roots grow deeper. In turn, a deep root system makes lawn care much easier. Mowing too low ruins more Kentucky bluegrass than any other practices. When Kentucky bluegrass is cut higher, it is more disease resistant and can succesfully compete with weeds and insects. The growth shades the soil, keeping temperatures low for cool loving roots.

Mow the grass 1.5" to 3" or more in the summer. Clippings are best left on the lawn, except after the first mowing of new sod. A mulch mower would be a good investment.

FERTILIZING

Your lawn needs many different elements to grow. Some, like oxygen and water are ubiquitious and supplied by mother nature (and you ). Others like boron and zinc are also neccesary, but only in trace amounts. The three most important elements have their concentration amount in percentages labeled on the fertilezer bags you purchase in a store.

1. NITROGEN promotes rapid growth and gives the lawn a healthy green color. Nitrogen gets washed out of the soil everytime you water and is regularly needed in order to maintain a growing and healthy looking lawn.
   
   
2. PHOSPHORUS is less important than nitrogen, but essential in stimulating the strong growth of roots. It is not flushed from the lawn by watering and is needed in higher percentages when establishing a new lawn. Established lawns need it in lower concentrations.
   
   
3. POTASSIUM This is as important as nitrogen and also gets washed out of the soil by water. Because it is present in most soils it is not needed in the same quantity as nitrogen. Potassium helps make your lawn tough and enhances the ability to handle traffic and disease.
   
   

Some simple guidelines for fertilizing are as follows: If your lawn is in need of mowing more than once a week, do not fertilize. If you have been watering and the lawn is yellow, it probably needs fertilizer or may suffer from iron deficiency.

Lawns differ and the most important way to figure out how much fertilizer your lawn needs is by observation.

A ratio (% N, % PH, % P) of 3 - 1 - 2 is recommended for most lawns, but it is not uncommon to have higher ratio of nitrogen such as 6 - 1 - 2 . Such ratios may not manifest themselves in whole numbers, but have the same ratios, such as 21 - 7 - 14. For Kentucky bluegrass the amount of fertilizer recommended is .4 - .8 pounds of nitrogen per 1000 square feet (111 square yards), per growing month (in Minnesota we have seven growing months).

A good fertilizing schedule is as follows: put 1/4 of the fertilizer on in the fall, to stimulate spring growing. Do this after the grass has stopped growing for the year. In the spring as soon as the grass is growing vigorously, apply another 1/4. Then about 6 weeks later, when the grass begins to loose its bright green color, apply 1/8 of the yearly total. If the lawn begins to turn yellow in the summer, you may fertilize but be very cautious and fertilize lightly, otherwise you risk burning out your lawn. Because the hot weather weakens the grass, use a fertilizer high in potassium during the summer months. As soon as the weather cools, add the other 3/8 left from your yearly total.

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